| 
|
Recap of our Plans for Le Lot Valley 2006! |
| ||
| ||
| ||
| ||
| ||
| ||
|
|
|
|
Recap of our Plans for Le Lot Valley 2006! |
|
| ||
|
| ||
|
| ||
|
| ||
|
| ||
|
| ||
|
|
Okay - this is old news - we'll be updating it soon! (still fun to read, right?!)
Summer 2002
’02 Dordogne…A Summer of Delight
This year we returned back to the Dordogne Valley and of course the beautiful village of Saint-Emilion. We were a small group of eight hardy riders touring the vineyards, châteaux, villages, and prehistoric caves during the summer days of ’02.
We started by meeting Lei and David Udell, Gladys Huang and Jim Spear, and Cathy Carr in Bordeaux. After the hellos, hugs, quick introductions, and stories of getting to Bordeaux, we jumped into the van and headed for Saint-Emilion. In 15 short minutes, there it was in the distant Saint- Emilion. Its famous tower rising above the vineyards and the yellow limestone stained from the weather. It was great to be back. In Saint-Emilion we met the rest of our group Larry and Ruth Tucker and Mary Pat Hennigan and all together we shared a wonderful lunch in a sun-drenched plaza at the center of town. After lunch, and a little wine, we went and sized up our bikes for a quick ride through the vineyards north of Saint-Emilion. David tried out his recumbent bicycle on this short ride receiving the first of many stares from startled and curious Frenchmen.
The next day we rode to Château de Roques and spent the late morning checking out the câves and doing a little wine tasting. In the câve below the château, we were also treated to an archeological gem of the Gaullic past. Later we had lunch of lapin and soup à l’oignon at the château’s restaurant, sampling more of the estate’s liquid refreshments.
With a few additional bottles in the panniers, we continued our ride through the villages of Lussac, Puisseguin and Parsac arriving back at our grand hotel in the center of Saint-Emilion. Later that evening, we enjoyed a wonderful dinner. MP continually tried to give her room key to one of the handsome waiters that evening and was finally successful…except the key was to Larry’s and Ruth’s room. Weren’t they surprised! As a thunderstorm brewed outside, lightning would occasionally light up the town below us. As we retired to our rooms, we all were hoping that sunshine would be on the weather map in the morning.Leaving Saint-Emilion under clear blue skies, we rode past the green vineyards and arrived at the wide and slow-moving Dordogne River. We followed the river at a leisurely pace to a small open field for our first picnic “au savage”. There the little French girl “Francine” was setting up a beautiful spread of lunch goodies right next to the freshly rolled bales of hay.
After lunch, we rode along the vineyards of Bergerac arriving at the turn to Chateau Montbazillac. A steep climb to the château on a warm afternoon made the end of the ride memorable. And, after a little more wine tasting at a nearby cave, we all jumped into the van for a short ride to our hotel. It was here that we discovered the incredible magical mystery toilets. After each flush, a whirling noise, like that of an Osterizer blender, ground up anything in its path and sent in onward to the sewer lines beyond. Everyone in the hotel knew if you had enough bran in your diet.
Then we began our journey to the town of Les Eyzies. It started out as an easy ride through the vineyards north of Bergerac and crossing back down to the Dordogne River at the town of Mouleydier. This is where Jim and Gladys took off and rode strongly all the way to the small village of Tremolat. Tremolat is so beautiful they decided to stay for lunch at a shady local café listening to the church bells ring on the half-hour. Meanwhile, David and Lei took their time and went shopping in Lalinde. They cruised into Les Eyzies just before the sun went down. Francine, Larry and Ruth, MP and Cathy Carr rode to the riverside town of Limeuil and had a picnic under the shade of the some large sycamore trees.
There were a few hills to climb to reach this cool spot, but the quaint town with its many stone houses was worth it. We all then rode on to the home of Cro-Magnon man, Les Eyzies, to our streamside hotel that was once a mill house. That night we ate outside and enjoyed another dinner with dessert finally being served just as the sun was setting at 10:00 pm.
In the morning, we took a short ride to the caves of Font de Gaume. Here we entered the caves to view the original pre-historic artwork that is famous to this area of France. There were bison depicted everywhere in this cool and damp cave having been preserved for thousands of years. The tallest of our riders, Larry had to hunch over the entire time in the caves. Cro-Magnon man certainly had to be height-challenged.
We left the cave and continued past farms and woods towards our destination of Sarlat. Along the route we started to find some meaningful gradual inclines (hills). At one point, Cathy, riding next to Jeff, looked at the steep road ahead and let out a sigh of relief when Jeff turned right to the small village of St. Andre. With a fast decent down to the local church we set up for lunch under the shade of some very old cherry trees.
This was a perfect spot to view the valley below and the small country road that we would follow after lunch. Enjoying the warm breeze most everyone reclined in the grass to take a small nap or watch as a local farmer and his son worked the fields below us. The afternoon was beginning to heat-up and we lazily mounted our bikes knowing we still had to reach our hotel just south of Sarlat. We were a long line of cyclists gliding down the road and through the forest that shaded us from the afternoon sun. After about an hour of riding we arrived at the hotel and immediately dove into the refreshing pool to cool off.
After our morning buffet and under another cloudless sky, a small sub-group of riders, Cathy Carr, MP, Jim Spear and Francine rode on the “free-day” to the small village of Domme. Jeff and the rest of the gang rode in the van lending vocal support to the riders. Domme is a picturesque village of small stone geranium-covered houses hanging from the cliffs over the Dordogne River. Incredible views of the valley below are seen from a small plaza. After exploring the small streets and shops of Domme, we climbed a few more hills and then rode on a trail through a small valley. From here you could view a fort/chateau of Castelnaud rising above the valley floor. The chateau is set on top of another jagged limestone cliff, a very impressive sight. Jim rode all the way to the top while the rest of us drove up to get a better look at this incredible fortress.
Jim then went racing back down meeting the rest of the riders following Francine to Beynac et Cazenac (another hill - another chateau). Everyone set out for lunch at different cafes and later to visit the chateau. It was getting to be late afternoon as the riders followed the remainder of the picturesque route to our hotel. With numerous hills and climbs this day, MP and Cathy Carr said this was perhaps the most challenging ride of the tour. Well done group!
That night we went into Sarlat to explore this well-preserved, medieval town and to have dinner. Italian was on most everyone’s minds and menu that night. And after the day’s hard ride some fell asleep in their pasta (anyone remember Al Barr in St. Remy?). The HWBT van left town early that night to take our weary riders back for a well-deserved night’s rest. However, Lei and David found a cozy restaurant and had a wonderful French repast lasting many hours. Trying to find a taxi at 11:00 pm though proved to be difficult…so a local gentleman gave them a ride back to our hotel (ahh c’est bon).
In the morning we all woke up ready for our next day’s ride to Lacave. We would again ride along the shores of the Dordogne River. This day’s ride is one of the prettiest stretches of the river. We had an initial 3 km ride up a hill to an outlook of the Perigord region. Then it was a wild dash back down to the river after everyone yelled out “TRACTOR!” A local farmer was driving his tractor to the next field and was using our road to get there.
After passing our farmer friend we coasted down to the river and rode under shady forests and through tidy farmlands. Here, along the cornfields was a deserted mansion. MP, Larry, Ruth and Jeff went in to explore the remains. The abandoned house still had its limestone circular staircase and oak beams that held up the roof of the pigionier. After a few photos and discussion about house remodeling, we met up with the rest of the group at our riverside picnic. Under the shade of some very old alders we again dined on ham and cheese sandwiches, pâté, fresh fruit, local olives, cornichons and of course Marie LU cookies.
Back on the route, we went where Jeff, Jim and MP bought a few bottles of walnut oil from a local farmer’s wife. Then we all rode into the town of Souillac to have a cold beer and watch the latest World Cup soccer match. Now MP and Cathy Carr were in heaven. With a cold beer, a soccer match, and screaming men all around them…the trip of a lifetime was finally coming true. Well, after the match it was time to head out from Souillac and get to our final destination in Lacave, Chateau de la Treyne.
And there it was….Chateau de la Treyne. As we rode across the narrow bridge, on the right was our private 17th century chateau perched on a rocky outcropping above the Dordogne. This was the last bridge that MP would have to cross. The chateau and its grounds were beautiful and we were off our bikes and ready to explore everyone’s rooms.
Then down to the pool to cool off and relax under the warm afternoon sun. That evening we had dinner in the large dining room with huge French windows looking out over the river. First came the amuse bouche, then the appetizer, dinner, pre-dessert, dessert, post-dessert and coffee. Amongst all this were numerous bottles of wines selected by Francine. Afterward we all retreated back to our comfortable rooms and slept well that night dreaming of tomorrow’s ride.
Well, our final ride of the tour was about to begin and everyone was eager to get started. Our bikes would take us to the amazing town of Rocamadour. Named after a solitary man who loved the area, Rocamadour’s literal translation is “rock lover.” This was to be a challenging morning ride with a quick 5-kilometer decent to Lacave and then a long 10 kilometer climb to Rocamadour. But, once there, the climbing was worth it. This town can be fully appreciated from a distance. Like most of the hill towns in France, it clings to a rocky cliff. But, Rocamadour builds on itself with many layers of stone building charging up the hillside and capping off with a large church and steeple at the top.
After strolling through the town and having lunch, the group saddled up for the long descent back to la Treyne. Ok, so there was one last climb that Jeff forgot. The climb was short and then no one had to peddle for the final 4 kilometers.
Back at the hotel most everyone enjoyed the afternoon poolside. Others simply read in the chateau’s gardens or edited their digital photos. All were savoring our last moments of the tour. That evening’s dinner was held out on the terrace overlooking the river. As we toasted with Kir Royals we watched the sun set and the swallows dip and dive and enjoyed another amazing repast.
The next morning brought departures. We all said our goodbyes at breakfast on the terrace. Jim and Gladys went first to the train station for an early train to Paris. Ruth, Larry and MP were to stay a while longer and take a cab to the station for a later train also to Paris. The rest of us took off in the van to Brive-la-Gaillarde. Lei and David rented a car and Cathy Car joined Jeff, Francine, Wil and Jeff Harkness for a final few days in the Dordogne.
The tour that started in Saint-Emilion and ended in Lacave had numerous highlights. But the people who joined us is what made the tour fun and provide the stories that are told after a bottle or two of red wine from Saint-Emilion. For those who joined us, the HWBT tour 2002 to the Dordogne Valley, will be a very special memory.
October 2000
Le Lot - Revisited Tour for 2001 We have a number of people who have expressed interest in
joining us next year and are already on our early sign up list. If you would
like to be a part of this group give us a call. No deposits are necessary until
January…Ahh we can taste the olives now!!
Well, Jeff's very favorite tour in this region of France was so fun - we'll
do it again - but maybe in several years. There are so many more places to
check out! Reflecting on this year's tour to the land of cliffs, caves,
wine, cheese and duck is difficult, because we get hungry, thirsty and long for
the beautiful landscapes of Le Lot while we write this newsletter!
The year 2001 is our first time to Provence with a Howie Wowie group.
We will go and visit the land of popes, wine, lavender, olive oil, and not
necessarily in that order! Our nine-day tour is from September 25th
October 3rd, 2001 is going to be great!
November
Tuscany RECAP
Good Going Guys and Gals!!! This was a fun adventure. Good
weather, good food, good wine and most of all good people. How do you begin to
recap an eleven-day tour? Let’s see… maybe we start with Hugo who treated
us, after our lunch on the sun drenched Piazza del Campo in Siena, to a local
"digestif." Or with our guide Paolo "the Saint" Faldoni who
wore on his sleeve a special concern for the art and history of Siena.
How about the uphill ride to Gargonza on our first day of cycling, or the lunch at Carlina d’Oro where we feasted on Tuscan soup, Pici spaghetti, coniglio in sage, insalata mista and many bottles of vino di Castello di Brolio. Perhaps we should begin with the story of a van full of HWBTers stuck in a ditch in the middle of a vineyard at 10:30 at night with an impatient lady in a Mercedes wanting to know how long we would be blocking this rather remote dirt road.
Nah, let’s start with the incredible Tuscan landscape, the challenging rides and our stays at Vescine and La Suvera. No, no, it has to be the cuisine. Like the night we dined on roasted medallions of lamb clothed in rosemary, or the night our meal began with pheasant p
a t¾ , or even our picnics that included all of those wonderful treats from the markets.But what about the towers of San Gimignano and little Casole d’Elsa… one with tourists galore - the other a sleepy hill town seemingly untouched by tourists. Or our ride to the quaint village of Oliveto and surprising the townspeople as they crushed the latest grape harvest. And then of course there was market day in Castellina in Chianti…get a load of those porcini and who saw that pig’s head so nicely toasted! Speaking of pigs, did you see the old woman with her prize pig trudging off to the forest, hopefully looking for truffles?
OK, well how about the 25 mile ride around the western edge of Elba, where we went from coastal desert to pine forest and back in time for a dip in the Mediterranean. Or the basket ride up to the highest point on Elba, or breaking down the bikes so we could stuff them into our "personal luxury motor coach" to catch the ferry back to Piombino. No, we’re going to continue this tale by talking about the great group of people who became the alumni of Tuscany ’99 (and with the helmet stickers to prove it).
In the many years we have provided these tours it never ceases to amaze us how wonderful these trips are for us. This is due primarily because of the people who join us for the fun. The landscapes look brighter, the hills shorter, the food tastier and the stories at night funnier when the people sharing them with you are a delight. And this year was no exception. It was Frank Brown and John Nordin (don’t tell these two you can’t find a good beer in Italy) who warmed up Hugo in Siena. Their good-natured ribbing of the restaurant owner gave us a little extra attention and a peek into how warm the Italians can be. Dennis Grimes, Dave Morgan and Tina Fiorini kept us all on our toes with their hard charging riding. But Dave always found time to take photos and soak in the scenery. However, Dennis or Dave were never far from checking in on the Judies. Judy Grimes and Judi Morgan came well prepared from their cycling in Colorado. Both did extremely well but were always glad to see the final arrows pointing to the hotel. Tina on the other hand left Garry Kepley to his own devices and he usually faired pretty well. We had to look out for Garry on the down hills but could hear him coming on the uphills (or was that something else snorting and grunting behind me).
Steve Fobes could be found stopped along the road and sketching. That is when he wasn’t fixing a flat tire or making sure Dave wasn’t too far ahead. Thank God Steve figured out his bike had more than 7 speeds.
Zoe Fausold was bound and determined to bike the entire route. True to form, she also made sure the scenery was appreciated along the way. Marshall Fausold was on a mission to find ancient embattlements, he succeeded and we also stayed in one at the hill town of Gargonza. Sharon Newman was faster up the hills than down ’em. She was a bit concerned about picking up too much speed on the way down. While Mary Van Anda nursed her sciatica for a time she was able to enjoy the "Papel Room" at La Suvera while leaving Rankine to "sing" alone to the group at dinner. I think she just liked her room so much she didn’t want to leave. On a daily basis, Rankine continued to amaze us with his hill climbing abilities using his 1-1 gearing and his sunny disposition when encountering another hill.
Even Annette Howard, who was warned by friends to not go on this trip because of the hills, could be heard exclaiming about how beautiful each vista was. She came away a stronger rider, having pushed herself and her heavier bike successfully across Italy. And what about Earl Johnson. How can a guy from Florida possibly train for the hills of Tuscany? Yet this guy mowed them down, even if he did miss a turn and saw a part of Tuscany that few other HWBTers did. But he did get to meet some Italian cyclists and learned the Italian words for "chain – stuck!!". And then of course there was Alison Fraser. What can you say about that little powerhouse. On only a bit of cheese and a bottle of wine she was like the Eveready Bunny. That gal can scoot! She just kept going until the next plate of cheese was placed in front of her. Polly and Art Jones could have been our first nude cyclists - had it not been for the airlines finally getting their luggage to Florence in time for them to catch the train to Siena. . I believe Art summed the trip up the best with his "last night toast" on Elba. In general he said …it is not often that we get to take on a challenge like the one offered to us in Tuscany. And, as a group, we were able to accomplish a physical feat that few people can do or even attempt to do.
We hope that Italia ‘99 will be a memory and accomplishment that all of our alumni can look back on proudly and fondly. Way to go guys and gals!!
Tour for 2000
The year 2000 takes us back to France and the beautiful Le
Lot Valley for an eight day tour from September 18 to the 25th. If
the Le Lot is not an area of France that you are familiar with don’t worry -
not many people know about this small but spectacular region in south central
France. Our adventure will begin in Cahors and we will experience the valley and
its quaint villages, incredible scenery along Le Lot River, some wonderful
regional wines, of course, prehistoric caves and great cuisine (a given, non?)
as we travel up Le Lot and the adjacent Le Cer River.
We have a number of people who have expressed interest in joining us next year and are already on our early sign up list. If you would like to be a part of this group give ua a call. No deposits are necessary until January…so don’t delay and start practicing your French exclamations because on this trip you are going to need them… Ahh magnifique!!
May
The Who's Who of HWBT!
OK... so who are these future pasta-eating, wine-drinking, hill-climbing, downhill screaming, fun seeking cyclists? Well let's start off with the HWBT alumni. First there is Dennis and Judy Grimes Loire '98, Steve Fobes Le Lot '97, Zoe and Marshall Fausold Loire '91, Mary and Rankine Van Anda Dordogne '94 and Frank Brown veteran of the original gang of Loire '90 and father of Wowie. Now this is a group that knows how to rock... so you new guys better be ready to roll.
The rookies who fill out the newcomer list include: Tina Fiorini and Garry Kepley, Judy and Dave Morgan - all from Colorado and friends of the Grimes; Susan Schuff from McCall Idaho and a good friend of Candy and Kay (you go gals...alumni from Arizona '93 and Dordogne '94); Sharon Newman from Silver Spring, Maryland, who will accompany Marshall Fausold; Annette Howard and Fleur Yano from Palos Verdes, California; Earl Johnson from Florida, and the trio of Alison Fraser and Polly and Art Jones from Coronado, California.
So, that's the line-up for HWBT Toscana and Isola d' Elba '99. It looks to be a hardy bunch and one that should enjoy cycling "under the Tuscan sun."
Regional Cuisine and Wine
The cuisine of Tuscany is wonderful. The only thing better that eating Tuscan fare is actually eating it in Tuscany. Some critics would argue that the Tuscan food is too simple and severe. But, the Tuscan table is perfect for both the active cyclist and the gourmet. In Tuscany everything is fresh (including the men) and everyone eats well. And of course, the virgin olive oil has a deep, rich fruity flavor and brings out the best of the many wonderful dishes. The bread, although unsalted, is crusty, hearty and is delicious when the local olive oil is drizzled over the bread and topped off with a large gulp of Chianti Classico!
The best part of this gourmandian challenge is we get to sample it all and decide for ourselves what is the best...buon appetito!
Tips and other things
Brush up on your italiano - the Italians are a warm and gregarious people and very forgiving to people who do not know their language. But, it is always nice to start off a conversation with a few of the daily pleasantries, however awkward. They will love you all the more for your effort and your acknowledgment of their culture and language. Check out some tapes from your local library and practice in the car or on your bike as you go to work... molte bene!
We will be meeting everyone in the town of Siena. You might want to come a day early to Siena - it's a great place to visit, and worthy of an extra day. The buildings of Siena that surround the Piazza del Campo symbolize the golden age of the city between 1260 and 1348. The Black Death in 1348 and an 18-month siege by the Florentines 200 years later led to Siena's decline. The victors repressed further development and Siena seems to have been frozen in time. To this day the relationship between Siena and Florence is still rather chilly.
Packed into Siena are the 17 contrades or neighborhoods whose symbols can be seen almost everywhere and on everything. Many times a contrade's flag will be out marking the neighborhoods ...look for the "Turtle" - my favorite.
Also, getting to Siena early may simply help you get over your jet-lag. Hotel suggestions are in your first information packet.
Body Tune-up Tips
All of our tours are "geared" for the recreational rider but preparing for the trip is always a good idea. You don't want to use the trip to get in shape... you'll enjoy the adventure that much more if you come ready to ride.
One way is to set up a program where you ride at least once a week. Start out with a few miles and work your way up to 30 to 35 miles. The main thing is to get your buns in shape as your legs will recoup by the next day. Train enough to be able to ride on two consecutive days without the derriere feeling sore. Remember we have some hills on this tour and nothing works better than getting on the road and putting in the miles. This way, by the time the tour rolls around, you'll have those "buns of steel."
Another tip is to do an errand by bike. Leave the car in the garage and hop on the two wheeler for that carton of ice cream, or the trip to the post office. If you're in the working world, ride your bike on Friday (most offices dress down on Friday). Try to make cycling a routine, you'll stay fit, reduce pollution and always find a parking space right by the door!!
Remember .. "No Trainin' ...No Complainin'!!!"
Hello to All! Well, we are back from the Loire Valley and it was a good tour with a great bunch of cyclists. We visited some new places and hotels including the Hotel St Pierre in Saumur, and the Chateau de Danzay in Beaumont en Veron. Both were great and have been added to the list as top notch places to stay. We had some incredible meals along the way - but isnít that one of the reasons we do this?!
It was nice to get back to the Loire Valley. HWBT had not been to the Valley of the Kings since 1995. So, we were able to reacquaint ourselves with good friends such as Monsieur Cesbron (our bike connection), Monsieur Barré, and Monsieur Hélin. All were wonderful hosts and treated our new HWBT gang to the delights of France.
Since this was our first tour in summertime, we were anxious to see what and if there were any differences compared to visiting in the autumn. The French schools were not out yet so the crowds were at a minimum. The weather was varied. We had light to heavy drizzle, strong winds (always at our back!) and warm sunny days. The sunflowers were only about 1-2 feet in height - so no flowers. But the red poppies were everywhere. And, as God is my witness, I will some day ride the countryside of France when the sunflowers are in full bloom. The World Cup didn't bother us but was sure on the Tube a lot. Every bar, hotel, restaurant, and house had the games on.
The other interesting thing was that it didn't get dark till 10:30 or 11 o'clock at night. This made the slow riders happy … especially after our wine tasting and picnic with M. Barré. They didn't have to use their lights to find their way to our first hotel.
Our group for the Loire included HWBT alumni Gladys Huang and Jim Spear who were eager to compare the cuisine of France to that of our Italy tour in '97. It took a while, but after a few meals (especially the filet mignon in a Chinon wine sauce that had incredible overtones of chocolate at Chateau de Danzay) I think it was hard for them to decide…but what a job!
Dennis and Judy Grimes, newcomers to HWBT, seemed to really get into the swing of cycling. Dennis saved the day for Jeff when he was able to track down Francine after she locked the van door and took off on her bike with the keys. Jim Spear helped out too by riding the keys back to Jeff -- an extra baguette and beer was in store for those guys. Judy did great and rode the entire mandatory way. She took the last day off to enjoy the Chateau de Chambord by van as did a few of the others. Three other rookies included John Bowman, along with Ann Porter, and her daughter Nancy Betka. They took in the sights and were able to also stop and smell the roses! Ann and Nancy, I think, surprised themselves on how easy it was to cycle 30 miles in a day. John really enjoyed the rosés that we tasted, and the reds… oh yeah and the whites too!!
Our bachelorette duo of Lori Storrier and Ingrid Alwerud thought that Régis from our Hotel Saint Pierre in Saumur was kind of cute, in a French sort of way! Hey girls…"What goes on tour, stays on tour, n'est-ce pas?" Lori and Ingrid did a fantastic job of riding and enjoyed their first sojourn with HWBT. And the Salmassys - what can you say about these two folks? Incredible riders, including the shower caps whether on their heads or on their seats, bike seats that is.
A pot-luck Loire Valley '98 Reunion is planned for September 26th at 4:30 pm at Chez Salmassy. Marge and Sherwood will be sending directions to our '98 group.
Tuscany -
We're planning to do the Chianti/Tuscany region again - so those
of you who want to go - call us to get on the list and save a
spot! We do have quite a few who want to go, so don´t dally!
We´ll be going in early October, and we'll go for 10 days.
Elba and the Mediterranean will be the end point again sooo…
Cappuccino anyone? We'll have precise dates by January 1999, when
the next brochure comes out.
 info@HWBT.com |
|  Home |